Piece goods for graduated print fullcircle skirt and method for imprinting the same



Aug-4 29,1961 HEB y 2,997,801 I ODS FO INT FU CIRCLE SKIRT I ND MET SAME A. J. GOTT R GRADUATED PR HOD FOR I-MPRINTING v Filed March 22, 1960 United States Patent O 2,997,801 PIECE GOODS FOR GRADUATED PRINT FULL- CIRCLE SKIRT AND METHOD FOR IMPRINT- ING THE SAME Albert I. Gottlieb, White Plains, N.Y., assignor to Alamo Manufacturing Co., Inc., New York, N.Y., a corporatiou of New York Filed Mar. 22, '1960, Ser. No. 16,813 4 Claims. (Cl. 41-17) The present invention relates to the art of graduated print full-circle skirts (a full-circle skirt having a hem periphery 206 to 216 inches in length) and more especially to roller-imprinted piece goods for the same and the engraved roller for imprinting the same.

As conducive to an understanding of the invention, it is noted that skirts of the type noted are prohibitively costly when printed by silk screen technique.

Where the vertex of the radiating imprinted repeats, usually of one yard of the length of the piece goods, has an angle of 90 degrees, as has thus far been the practice in engraved roller imprinted graduated print piece goods, four panels of such fabric are required for fabricating a full-circle skirt.

It is an object of the invention to provide a graduated print full-circle skirt which effects a twenty-tive (25%) percent saving of fabric in the manufacture of such skirt, that is, with the use of only three panels each made from a one yard repeat of the piece goods.

The invention involves the use of a skirt that has only three graduated print panels, each panel of the graduated print full-circle skirt subtending an angle not of 90 but of approximately 120 degrees.

It would not be possible to imprint the full, uninterrupted panel of a graduated imprint full-circle skirt of 120 degrees vertex angle on one and the same one yard repeat of the piece goods. It is this impossibility which has precluded until the date of the present invention the production of a graduated imprint full-circle skirt requiring but three yards of the piece goods, instead of the four yards previously needed for the purpose.

According to the invention the imprinted pattern of each panel would extend from one repeat of 4the piece goods across the junction line between two adjoining repeats of the piece goods to be partially imprinted upon the next imprint.

According to the invention in an embodiment that is now in production, the line of demarcation between the two parts of a single skirt panel on adjoining repeats of the piece goods consists of a radius of the graduated skirt panel extending from the vertex along the junction line between repeat segments of the piece goods. This is accomplished by subdividing the angle of 120 degrees in such manner that so much of the vertex angle and the associated imprint beyond that which can be accommodated in one continuous segment on the main graduated imprint of the yard length of one of the repeat lengths of the piece goods, is imprinted contiguously thereto on the next piece goods repeat.

In a desirable embodiment, the vertex of the graduated imprint is at one end of the repeat segment of piece goods (generally one yard in length), but at some distance from the selvage and the hem line arc of the main imprint extends from near the outer corner of the repeat length of piece goods at the same end as the vertex to near the corner of the piece goods repeat segment, diagonally opposed to the beginning of said arc. By reason of the distance of the vertex from the hem line, the vertex can and does subtend an arc greater than 90 degrees for the sides of the main imprint to be wholly within the connes of the repeat length of piece goods, as of course it must be. The vertex in such embodiment cannot however be so far from the selvage as to accommodate the full 120 degrees of arc without either objectionable reduction in the length of the skirt or overlap upon the next repeat. Accordingly, the complementary imprint is of angle equal to the difference between 120 degrees and the vertex angle of the main imprint on the repeat. That complementary imprint vertex is aligned with the vertex of the main imprint, with one leg along the end of the yard length of piece goods repeat and the other leg of the complementary limprint is substantially tangential relation to the arc of the main imprint. That complementary imprint would be in contact with the end radius of the main imprint on the next repeat of which it is a part in each of the three panels cut from the piece goods to make a graduated print full-circle skirt.

In a preferred embodiment the difference between the 120 degree vertex angle of the skirt panel and the 90 degree vertex angle heretofore used of necessity, is divided, the main imprint having a vertex of degrees and the complementary imprint of 15 degrees.

The invention is formulated in the claims as piece goods for graduated print full-circle skirt, each garment requiring but three yards of engraved roller imprinted fabric and a method for producing the component panels of each skirt therefrom.

In the accompanying drawings in which are shown one or more of various possible embodiments of the several features of the invention:

FIG. 1 is a plan view of a segment of piece goods, showing three repeat patterns shown in outline only, as imprinted by an engraved roller upon piece goods, with each repeat extending desrably 36 inches of the length of the piece goods,

FIG. 2 is a plan view of a spread out skirt made from three of the panels, cut from the piece goods and turned inside out at the waistline, better to reveal the construction,

FIG. 3 is a perspective view showing the skirt as made from the three panels, and

FIG. 4 is a developed plan view of an engraved roller for imprinting piece goods in the repeat pattern shown in outline in FIG. l.

Referring now to the drawings, the piece goods, customarily 42 inches wide, is imprinted from an engraved copper roller shown developed at R in FIG. 4, and preferably 36 inches in circumference, so that a repeat occurs every 36 inches of the piece goods length illustratively at A, B and C in FIG. l. Each repeat imprinted yard length of the piece goods begins at aa, bb, cc, etc. as indicated in FIG. l.

According to the embodiment shown in FIG. l, the vertex l0 of each graduated print skirt imprint is at one end of the repeat yard length of piece goods, but at some distance from the selvage 11. 'I'he vertex angle of degrees so positioned, cannot be accommodated in one continuous imprint within the confines of the one yard length of the piece goods imprinted by one complete turn of the imprinting roller of 36 periphery. Accordingly, the vertex angle 10 between lines aa and bb, defining one repeat length A of the piece goods, would of necessity be less than 120 degrees.

That angle would be greater than 90 degrees that is, an obtuse angle substantially less then 120 degrees between the extreme radii 12 and 13 from the vertex 10. By reason of the distance of the vertex 10 from the selvage 11, the radiating stripes 15 between radius 12 and radius 13 at the opposite ends of the circular hem arc 16 of the imprint described, are accommodated on each one yard repeat segment of the piece goods. This is true even though the vertex angle is greater than 90 degrees, since the width of the segment between the longitudinal line of vertex 10 and of selvage 11 accommodates that wedge of angle by which the main imprint angle is greater than 90 degrees.

'Ihe angle by which the main imprint vertex 10 above described is short of 120 degrees is completed as a complementary imprint W' having an angle v, the vertex of which is in line longitudinally of the piece goods with the vertex 10. The wedge W has a leg 17 along the end bb of the yard segment or repeat A of the piece goods and the side or leg 18 of that wedge is substantially tangential of the hem arc 16 on the same repeat A.

The repeat has thus far been described in a general way without limitation to dimensions. In one practical embodiment of the invention the distance d between both the vertex 10 and the vertex of the complementary segment W' and the selvage 11 is 5% inches. The vertex angle of the main imprint M' extending between radii l2 and 13 is 105 degrees and the wedge angle v is 15 degrees.

Referring to FIG. 4, there is shown a developed view of the engraved copper roller R from which the piece goods illustrated in FIG. 1 is imprinted. The developed roller has a width corresponding to the width of the piece goods (in usual practice this width would be about 40 inches and the goods would be stretched in framing the same, to about the desired 42 inches). The circumference of developed length of roller R is 36 inches.

In a preferred form of the specific embodiment above described, the graduated full-circle pattern is engraved upon the roller in two segments, viz. a main pattern M having a vertex angle 21 of 105 degrees and the other a wedge segment W having a vertex an-gle 22 of 15 degrees.

'Ihe vertex 21 and the vertex 22 are at equal distances from the selvage line 23 and in the specific embodiment described above, that distance is about inches on the roller as of course it is in the above described specific embodiment of piece goods imprinted therefrom. The main engraved pattern M extends from line 24 which is longitudinally of the roller to the other extreme radius 25 at an angle 105 degrees from line 24. The length of each radius is about 35 inches, so that the hern are 27 of the main pattern extends from near the upper end 28 of the line 24 to about one inch from line 29 at the other extremity of the roller as developed, which line 29 of course coincides with line 24 in the complete or undeveloped roller.

The wedge segment W has the vertex angle of 15 degrees with one side or leg along the extreme line 29 of the developed roller and the other side or leg 30 substantially tangentially of the hem arc 27 of the main pattern M. Y

The arc 31 of the wedge pattern W extends close to the rim 33 of the roller as does the end of the arc 27 of the main pattern M.

Though the radius of the graduated pattern is approximately 35 inches, the vertex angle of 105 degrees and the corresponding cuter hem arc of about 64 inches, as well as the wedge pattern W are accommodated on the roller of 36 inch circumference.

One of countless possible patterns is illustratively suggested on the developed engraved roller R with fourteen identical sectors, each of 71/2 degrees, aggragating 105 degrees.

The complementary wedge pattern W has two identical sectors identical with those of main pattern M, each of 7% degrees.

Illustratively there is a suggestion in FIG. 4 and in HG. 3 of one of countless possible graduated patterns for the full-circle type of skirt under consideration. The pattern on each of the fourteen plus two wedge sectors presents radiating dividing lines 36 and is shown interrupted near the hem by a width 31' of ower and leaf design. A pattern 32', similar to the pattern 31', or other pattern if desired, may be engraved between the hem edge 27 of the main pattern M and the edge 33 of the 4 roller and a similar pattern 34 between main pattern M and selvage line 23.

The engraved roller shown developed in FIG. 4, will imprint upon the piece goods a sequence of repeats as illustrated in FIG. l. 'Ihus the one yard segment A will have imprinted thereon in one turn of the roller, the m-ain imprint M of graduated pattern and the complementary wedge imprint W. On the next turn of the engraving roller R, the main pattern M' will be imprinted upon segment B in exact correlation with the wedge W on the previous segment A and so forth.

Obviously the individual panels of the skirt would be l cut about the outline of the complete skirt panel made up of the main segment M', say of panel B complemented by the adjoining wedge segment W' integral therewith, of panel A.

Three imprinted panels cut from the piece goods, each panel of degrees vertex are stitched together longitudinally along their edges as in FIG. 2, and the vertex end cut away for the waistline and then the assembly is reversed as shown in FIG. 3 to form the skirt.

The excess material imprinted from areas 32 and 34 of the roller and not used in the skirt panel may be utilized for the waistband 35 of the skirt or for segments of an accompanying blouse or the like.

Thus, the present invention accomplishes great economy of material in the fabrication of graduated full-circle skirts, by imprinting piece goods therefor from an engraved copper roller. By this invention it has for the lirst time become possible to fabricate a graduated print full-circle skirt from three yards of the piece goods, where heretofore it has been possible to do so only with the use of four yards of such goods. Accordingly, a striking economy in the price to the consumer of this type of skirt has been effected or the use of finer fabric, better trimming and the like has been made possible at the same price.

It will be understood that while the vertex angle of each panel is preferably 120 degrees, a variation of a few degrees from that angle will still be within the scope of the invention.

It will be apparent that the sectors of the graduated full-circle skirt pattern could be of any angle other than 7V: degree sectors illustrated in the particular embodiment shown on the drawings. Manifestly the sector angles in one and the same pattern could be of a sequence of dilerent angles of designs according to the wish of the designer.

The pattern 31 is purely illustrative and could be replaced by any pattern continuous or in discontinuous or as a medallion design, or the like, or the sectors might extend uninterrupted continuously from the vertex to the hem arc.

It will of course be obvious that .the invention is not limited to a skirt as a separate garment, but is applicable to the skirt element of coordinated two or three-piece outts, or as the skirt part of a one-piece dress, using the excess print in making part of the bodice.

As changes could be made in the above construction, and apparently widely different embodiments of this invention could be made without departing from the scope of the claims, it is intended that all matter contained in the above description or shown in the accompanying drawings shall be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

l. Piece goods for a graduated print full-circle skirt requiring only three yards of the length thereof per garment, said piece goods having a selvage along one longitudinal edge thereof, said piece goods having repeat imprinted lengths thereon, each one yard long, each repeat being formed by one complete turn of an engraved roller of conventional one yard circumference, the graduated imprint made by said roller consisting of a main segment v and a complementary segment; the main segment subtending at an obtuse angle materially less than 120 degrees, with one leg of said angle at one end of the repeat, the vertex of said angle being at some distance from said selvage of the piece goods, the other leg of said angle of the main segment being inclined outwardly relative to the length of the ypiece goods and extending to near the opposite end of the piece goods repeat to near the said selvage thereof, the complementary segment being wedgeshaped, with one leg thereof extending substantially tangentially of the hem arc of the main segment and the other leg of said wedge-shaped segment extending along said opposite end of the piece goods repeat, whereby each of the three panels from which the graduated print iullcircle skirt is made is cut from the piece goods in one piece, consisting of a main segment and a wedge-shaped segment, said segments being in adjacent repeats with the two segments contiguous to each other along the full length of the corresponding legs.

2. The combination of claim l, wherein the vertices of the two complementary imprint segments are substantially aligned with each other longitudinally of the repeat, both at a substantial distance from said selvage, the sum of the vertex angles of the main and the complementary imprint segments being approximately 120 degrees.

3. The combination recited in claim 1, wherein the width of the piece goods is about 42 inches, the vertex angle of the main segment is about 105 degrees, and that the complementary wedge shaped segment is about l5 degrees.

4. The method of producing panels from piece goods for a graduated print full-circle skirt, requiring only three yards of fabric per garment by the use of an engraved roller of conventional circumference of one yard for imprinting each yard of the piece goods, the imprint made by each complete turn of the roller consisting of a main imprint segment and a complementary imprint segment; the main imprint segment having a vertex near one end of each repeat of the piece goods, the hem line arc of the main graduated imprint extending from near one end of the repeat from near the edge other than that of the selvage, to a point near the opposite end of the repeat and close to the selvage, one leg of said complementary imprint segment being substantially tangential to the hem arc of the main imprint and the other leg extending substantially along said opposite end of the piece goods repeat, along one leg of the main imprint segment of the next repeat, the vertices of the main and of the supplemental imprint segment being at equal and substantial distances from the selvage; and cutting each panel from the piece goods along the periphery of the pattern made up of the main imprint segment and the complementary imprint segment along the end of the main imprint, but in adjoining repeats of the piece goods.

References Cited in the tile of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,069,072 Johnson Jan. 26, 1937 FOREIGN PATENTS 719,596 Great Britain Dec. l, 1954 

